How a No Cost Refinance Loan Really Works

no cost loan

You may have seen ads for a “no cost refi” loan lately, a mortgage program that promises no fees or out-of-pocket expenses when you refinance your existing mortgage.

While this type of offer is by no means a new concept, it’s definitely a subject worth visiting to ensure people understand what they’re getting when they choose a no cost refinance option.

What Is a No Cost Refinance?

A no cost refinance is essentially a loan transaction in which the lender or broker pays settlement costs, including typical lender fees such as processing and underwriting fees, the appraisal fee, and loan origination points, along with third party costs like title/escrow fees and so on.

You may be asking yourself how banks and lenders make up for the absence of fees that normally must be paid during a refinance (or purchase) transaction.

Well, assuming the lender actually pays your closings costs, doing so will bump up your interest rate, sometimes dramatically, in order to make up for the missing fees that are typically charged at closing.

No Cost Loan  = Higher Mortgage Rate

It’s a simple trade – pay nothing now, but pay more over the life of the loan in the form of a higher mortgage rate.

For some borrowers, a no cost loan is a necessity because they don’t have the required funds to pay all the fees at closing, but for others it’s a decision that will need to be made during the loan process.

Keep in mind that mortgage brokers can also set up a no cost loan for you, adjusting their yield-spread premium (commission) to the point where they make enough money to offset the fees associated with the loan.  *This is now accomplished by using a lender credit.

Tip: The terms of no cost loans will vary by lender. Some programs may cover ALL closing costs, while others may still charge you for certain third-party fees such as appraisal/inspection, title, escrow, and even mortgage points!  Be sure to pay attention to what fees are and are not covered.

For example, if a bank advertises a “no lender fees loan,” they will expect you to pay for third-party fees, along with property taxes, prepaid interest, and insurance.  Regardless, you can still attempt to negotiate a lower rate whether it’s no cost or no fee.

[How to Lower Your Closing Costs.]

Let’s look at an example of a typical no cost refinance program:

No cost refinance: 6.5% mortgage rate, NO fees.
Standard refinance: 6% mortgage rate, $7,500 in fees.

Imagine you’re able to qualify for a mortgage at an interest rate of 6% on a $500,000 loan, paying a point to the lender and another $2,500 in closing costs, totaling $7,500. While this may seem like a large upfront cost, the trade-off should be a lower interest rate.

With a typical no cost mortgage, you’ll cruise through the process without paying a dime at closing, but you may end up with an interest rate of 6.5% or higher for the very same loan.

Assuming you make the interest-only payment each month, you’ll pay an additional $200 a month, or roughly $2,400 more annually if you select the no cost option at an interest rate of 6.5%.

As you can see, it’s a case of pay less now, but a lot more over time.  You’re basically financing the costs you didn’t pay at closing, which will be more expensive in the long run.

Is a No Cost Refinance a Good Idea?

This is the point where you need to ask yourself what you plan to do with the property and the mortgage.

If you’re planning on moving or upgrading to a more expensive home in just a few years, or if you’re the type who refinances often, paying upfront costs for a lower interest rate will probably be a losing endeavor. For you, a no cost loan may actually be a good choice.

After all, there’s no reason you should pay for a lower interest rate if you’re only going to turn around and sell/refinance a few months/years later.  You’ll never realize the savings!

But if you plan to stay in the home for five or more years (or whenever the break-even point takes place), it would make sense to pay a little more upfront for future savings.  Why?  Well, that $200 discount each month might ease your budgeting woes in the future, and amount to some serious savings if you stick with the mortgage for the long haul.

Remember, no cost loans aren’t inherently good or bad. They aren’t a scam and they aren’t magic.  The money is either paid upfront or over time.  Their associated benefit or cost will really depend on your unique financial situation, what the fees are, and what the interest rate impact will be.  Make sure you do the math and compare options before signing on the dotted line.

Also watch out for banks that “bundle” your closing costs on top of your loan amount, increasing the size of your loan, effectively making it a “no-cash loan.”

Though you may avoid out-of-pocket expenses and upfront fees, these costs are not lender-paid, and the loan is not a true no cost loan.  You simply pay the fees over the life of the loan instead of at closing.  And you’re stuck with a higher loan amount to boot!  Not necessarily a great deal.

For the record, you can also get a no cost loan for a home purchase, though it might take a combination of a lender credit, a credit from your real estate agent, and seller concessions to make it all work.

Lastly, don’t forget to negotiate.  It might be best to ask the lender what their best rate is, then tell them you want a no cost option as well.  That way you can see what the difference is without showing your hand.  If you tell them you want the loan at no cost, you may never know how low the rate could have been.

Read more: Buying down your interest rate.


65 Comments

  1. Nancy October 15, 2015 at 8:20 am -

    We have a 30 year loan with an interest rate of 4.25. 26 years left on the loan. Owe $40,000.00. Would a no cost refinancing be a good option?
    Thank you

  2. Colin Robertson October 15, 2015 at 8:26 am -

    Nancy,

    It depends what your goal is and what the new interest rate will be. You aren’t that deep into the loan so restarting it may not be an issue, though you’ll want to determine the savings based on how long you plan to keep the new loan.

  3. Anna October 15, 2015 at 2:03 pm -

    Hi, just spoke to the mortgage associate regarding “No cost refinancing”. Current balance is 150K at 5%, was offered 3.875% at no cost + third party fees paid by the bank but the balance will be approximately $152K due to payoff amount + escrow + 15days of Interest charge…is this real? What is the actual benefit to the bank?

  4. Colin Robertson October 20, 2015 at 2:37 pm -

    Anna,

    Banks can offer no cost loans because they still make money by selling and/or servicing the loans. It doesn’t matter what your current interest rate is as long as they can make money on the new loan. Keep in mind that if you pay those closing costs yourself the interest rate would likely be lower, such as 3.5% for example.

  5. Bob January 27, 2016 at 8:49 pm -

    Thinking about a cash out refinance. We owe $204,000 with 28yrs left on a 30 yr @ 4.25%. House is valued at $300,000. Would like to take $30,000 out with minimal out of pocket at closing. Am I dreaming? Thanks

  6. Colin Robertson January 28, 2016 at 10:05 am -

    Bob,

    Why would you be dreaming? The LTV with the cash out would still be below 80% based on your numbers, though your rate may not be much better than 4.25%. Could also explore a second mortgage (HELOC, etc.) if the rate on the first is worse.

  7. Amber February 3, 2016 at 2:00 pm -

    Question, please…

    I owe roughly $160K on my home. It is currently valued at $240K. I need roughly $35-40K for home improvements. One bank is offering a cash-out refi at 4.125% interest rate, but only giving me $25K due to closing costs. However, this option does keep my mortgage roughly the same as it is now. Another bank is a heloc loan at 5.24% & no closing costs. Which is the better deal?

  8. Colin Robertson February 3, 2016 at 2:51 pm -

    Amber,

    It depends how long it will take you to pay back the loan, but you could probably get a first mortgage at a lower rate than 5.24% with no closing costs if they’re offering you 4.125% with closing costs. But you also have to consider the fact that if you refinance the first mortgage it resets the clock and interest is paid over a new 30-year term.

  9. Josh February 8, 2016 at 1:17 pm -

    I owe 450k at 4.25%. A broker is offering 3.75% with $3300 lender’s credit to pay of all closing costs (about $2900) which are listed on the HUD-1. There is also a 1.25% YSP to the broker by the lender. This deal not only saves me money (about $200/month) but also costs nothing out of pocket. It also gives me the option to not have an impound account which I really want. Anything I’m missing or overseeing? Or am I being ripped off by the broker? I don’t know what my par rate is.

    Broker says the lender’s credit will be shown once the loan is closed and not on initial disclosures which makes me a bit nervous. Is this how it is usually done?

  10. Colin Robertson February 8, 2016 at 2:19 pm -

    Josh,

    You could ask what the par rate is if you were to pay the closing costs yourself to see how low the rate could be. The loan also technically resets the amortization period if it’s the same term. And the lender credit should be on the Loan Estimate form.

  11. Micah February 16, 2016 at 3:50 pm -

    My draw period is up in 3 months. Interest only payment on a cash-out will go from 370 to P&I of 1000/month(loan balance of 112k) Mortgage pymt is 800(loan balance of 90K). That extra 600/month will hurt a bit… refi fees are steep and its a condo/TH so will a no-cost refi benefit me? I plan on staying here for the long haul also. Please help. Average selling prices have been in the 250-260k range as of late. Thank you in advance.

  12. Colin Robertson February 16, 2016 at 5:01 pm -

    Micah,

    Chances are you can consolidate both loans into one and ideally get a good rate at 80% LTV or lower. Not sure what your current rate is on the first/second but rates are super low again. And yes you can ask about doing it with no cost for a slightly higher rate and no/limited out-of-pocket costs, but you plan to stay for a long time it might make sense to go for a lower rate and pay the closing costs. The fact that it’s a condo/townhouse shouldn’t have much effect on the rate, possibly none if you can get the LTV down to 75%.

  13. Lynn February 25, 2016 at 3:12 pm -

    My husband and I are in the process of purchasing a house through a short sale. A family member is gifting us the money to purchase it since it is a cash sale only. We will need to pay the family member back within 1 year.

    I’ve been told in 10 months we should start looking into refinancing cash out loan. We would not have to put the 20% down providing the house appraises for more than the purchase price. And we will only get 80% of the appraised value.
    Am I understanding this correctly or is there something I am missing?

  14. Colin Robertson February 25, 2016 at 4:06 pm -

    Lynn,

    It would rely on home prices rising enough to appraise at the value you need/want…meaning there’s no absolute guarantee since no one knows with certainty where home prices will be in the future.

  15. Faith May 3, 2016 at 11:02 pm -

    I refinanced a VA loan, at no cost to me, last winter. My current interest rate is 3.5%. I keep getting flyers about very low interest rates. The new Loan Estimates and Closing Disclosures are harder to read than the old Truth-in-Lending HUD forms! There was a mistake when I closed on the VA IRRL (Interest rate reduction loan) with regard to the settlement agent information not being correct so I have two Closing Disclosures (the first one with the error and the second, corrected one) that show an $1170 increase from the Loan Estimate to the Final in the line on page 3 that says “Down Payment / Funds from Borrower.” I did not pay a down payment to do the IRRL. There is some type of scam going on but I am not smart enough to see it.

  16. Colin Robertson May 4, 2016 at 2:36 pm -

    Faith,

    If you have a 30-year fixed, 3.5% is a seemingly great rate…it doesn’t get much lower. Not sure what the $1170 is for…could ask your loan officer to explain.

  17. Byron June 7, 2016 at 9:36 am -

    I currently have a 3.5% IR on a VA Loan which I just found out I can have reduced to a 3.25% IR. There are no fees or closing costs with the refi and they say that I will save $40K in interest and $59 on the monthly note. We have $193,375 remaining on the loan. The thing is we never readjusted our original loan payment so we have been paying $145 every month to the principal, which we would add the $59 and just continue the course (along with bi-weekly payments to get the extra payment a year). So is this quarter reduction worth it? My other half is apprehensive because following the first refi we had to pay taxes. Your thoughts?

  18. Colin Robertson June 7, 2016 at 3:18 pm -

    Byron,

    The refi will restart the loan, which could be a negative if your goal is to pay it off in full and it’s already been paid for several years. And a quarter percent isn’t a very big drop in rate. Have you considered a shorter loan term if you’re currently on a 30-year? The rate would be lower, monthly payment higher, but interest savings also higher (and paid off faster obviously). Ultimately you have to compare total costs of both loans side-by-side to get the entire picture and determine which is best for your situation. Make sure that $40k figure is accurate and factors in your current special payment setup that you mentioned. Not sure what taxes you’re referring to.

  19. Michael June 9, 2016 at 1:29 pm -

    Interesting post. I think the main thing you left out was the benefit of no cost refi’s when it helps reduce your mortgage rate. I’ve been in the industry awhile and have been don’t these types of refinancing for my clients to help them reduce their rate upwords of 2%. Those closing costs can be hefty but if it helps save borrowers $200/month, why wouldn’t you refinance?

  20. MARC HAINES June 12, 2016 at 5:35 am -

    Colin
    We were in the midst of closing last week, and the day before closing the deal fell through (buyer couldn’t fund). I am moved out in an apartment in one state, my wife is an an apartment back by the house.
    We now have three monthly payments; we are still selling, and are seeing great market interest in the house, so would it be prudent (if our goal is to sell in the next 2-3 months) to ‘no-cost’ refi to lower our monthly obligations?
    Thanks kindly

  21. Colin Robertson June 24, 2016 at 3:45 pm -

    Michael,

    Sure it can benefit the borrower and still be no cost, I just like to point out that there is indeed a cost, and the rate could be even lower.

  22. Colin Robertson June 24, 2016 at 4:01 pm -

    Marc,

    Lenders would likely frown upon this if your intention isn’t to occupy the property for more than a month or two. It could also get hairy if you do wind up finding a buyer right away, or if the lender sees that you recently listed the home (on MLS records) and denies the refinance request on that basis.

  23. Mike August 20, 2016 at 4:13 pm -

    Would you recommend refinancing if have a 103k balance at 4.5% and will pay off in 3 years. Thinking we will pay about 8000 in interest over that time and any savings off that in refinancing would be negated by refinance fees?
    Thanks

  24. Colin Robertson August 22, 2016 at 7:35 pm -

    Mike,

    Well, if you’re able to do it at no cost and snag a lower rate and thus save money on payments each month without incurring any out-of-pocket costs it could make sense. Paying fees that won’t be recouped in three years might not be wise.

  25. April August 29, 2016 at 5:28 pm -

    Hi Colin,

    Thanks for the article. I am looking at a no cost refi right now but I learned as I was going through the paperwork that like you said, the cost is bundled in there; in my case it’s into the loan. We currently owe $342k and have an interest rate of 4.125% on a 30-year loan that matures on 2/1/2042. We are considering a 15-year fixed refi with a cash out for remodeling and are being told we could get around a 3% rate. I was told we only had to cover the appraisal fee but I see fees like credit report, tax service fee, underwriting, title charges etc totaling over $4518 that will be paid from the loan amount, but I do also see a lender credit of $1500. Our monthly mortgage payment will go up significantly, but we wanted to pay our mortgage off earlier, thus the move from 30 year to 15 year. Bottom line though, are we making a smart decision if we plan on doing a remodel and plan to stay for the long term? Should we look into paying the costs upfront to see if we could even get a lower rate? Thank you in advance!

  26. Mac September 14, 2016 at 7:54 am -

    Would a no cost benefit me if I am refinancing to a 15yr mortgage from a 30yr.

  27. Colin Robertson September 19, 2016 at 8:23 am -

    Mac,

    It definitely could, though my assumption is most folks looking to switch from a 30-yr to a 15 would seek the lowest rate possible, which would generally mean paying for closing costs. But it’s possible to find a lender with a lower rate than others and no fees if you shop around.

  28. Rob September 21, 2016 at 1:03 pm -

    Hi Colin,

    This is a great article – thanks for the informative words! Mortgages are exceptionally complex to me and I get buried in the math and jargon.

    I bought a $375K house two years ago with an 80/20 loan (due to minimum equity on the loan) and am looking to lower rates with a no-cost option as well as consolidate the loan. Appraiser rated the house at $395K, so we’re still not close to 20% equity yet but no escrow is a requirement for us, given we can make 15% floor through an employee stock purchase program vs letting it make nothing for us in an escrow account.

    Current offer on the table reduces rates on both primary and secondary loan rates with ~$2600 in closing costs rolled into the loan. My wife and I don’t plan to be in the house long enough for the math to work out long-term, but the lower payments month-to-month are attractive.

    I usually think if a deal is too good to be true, it usually is, but I don’t see any downside except for a couple thousand I’ll make up in 21 months or so. What am I missing? Thanks in advance!!

  29. Colin Robertson September 21, 2016 at 1:26 pm -

    Rob,

    There’s no real catch…it’s really just based on how long you keep the mortgage. Put simply, it makes sense to pay for a rate if you keep said rate for a long enough time to recoup the cost and save monthly. And vice versa. So those not keeping their mortgages long term usually don’t benefit from paying upfront.

  30. Robert October 8, 2016 at 2:50 pm -

    I just bought a home 6 months ago for 168k for 30yrs at 4.15%. A no cost refinance has been offered by the same lender at a 3.25% with nothing changing in loan parameters. Looking over the contract I see an increase to the new loan for 10k. But, my new loan saves me $80.00 a month. I see that saving is the point and I still save about $5000.00 over the 30yrs.

    Question, should I be surprised to see this when I was told it’s a no cost loan.. Obviously it’s not.

  31. Colin Robertson October 11, 2016 at 8:08 am -

    Robert,

    As I pointed out “no cost” just means no cost out-of-pocket. There are still loan costs either rolled into the loan or absorbed via a higher interest rate than what you could qualify for. The rate might be even lower if you pay your closing costs, or don’t add them to your loan balance. But yes, it’s possible to go no cost and still save if your current interest rate is that much higher than prevailing rates.

  32. Kimberly December 8, 2016 at 3:46 pm -

    Hello, I have a question about – Zero points ,zero cost with no fees rolled into your loan – what does this really mean

    Currently I have a 270,000. loan with an interest rate of 4.25 % 30 year – FHA
    I wanted to take 30 k out of our equity for home improvements
    New loan would 300,000.00 with 4.25% 30 year-FHA with cash out
    is this smart I’m not sure , nothing is No cost i understand we will be paying somewhere but not really sure where these cost would be in our loan…..

  33. Colin Robertson December 9, 2016 at 10:10 am -

    Kimberly,

    As noted, you pay for the no cost benefit via a higher interest rate. So if they’re offering you 4.25% with no cost to you, it might be 4% with closing costs, for example. So you pay over time via the higher rate as opposed to upfront.

  34. Joe January 18, 2017 at 2:21 pm -

    Right now I have a 15 year mortgage at a 3% IR. In 2015 I was layed off from my job. I am now self employed but only for a year and a half. I am having trouble keeping up on my bills. I have a great credit score (790) but not enough income for the bank to refinance my current loan to a 30 year mortgage. I owe $122500 on my house and the value of it is $210000. I haven’t missed one house payment. I have had the 15 year loan for 5 years. What should I do?

  35. Colin Robertson January 24, 2017 at 9:53 pm -

    Joe,

    Might want to speak with a broker or two to see if anyone can work with limited self-employment and/or limited documentation to get you a lower payment…I’m assuming you’d want to stretch to a 30-year term. A refi could drop the payment significantly with both a longer loan term and a payment based on the much smaller $122,500 balance. You might need to wait for the 2-year mark on the self-employment for more options to open up. Good luck.

  36. Monica Mesa February 20, 2017 at 10:39 am -

    Thanks in advance!
    Current loan: 18 years left on a fixed 6% – $375k
    Proposed new loan: 15 years @ 3.375 %

    Payments will stay basically the same
    New loan would incur loan costs of $5735 with $4613 as cash to close.

    Is this a worthwhile expense? The question has come up whether it would make more sense to make one or more extra payments per year and effectively shorten the loan that way. Most appealing aspect of the new loan is the idea of paying off in 15 years.

  37. Colin Robertson February 20, 2017 at 4:22 pm -

    Monica,

    The 15-year term is good in that you don’t reset the clock, assuming you want to pay off your mortgage. As for it being a worthwhile expense to pay thousands at closing, you’d have to compare total loan costs if you were to make extra payments on a slightly higher rate loan with no closing costs (or lower ones) versus the loan you were offered. You basically need to decide if paying closing costs make sense depending on your repayment plan. Paying extra has the potential to both shorten the term and save you interest, even if the rate is higher. Also determine what the closing costs are, if you can lower them somehow, or find a better deal elsewhere and get best of both worlds.

  38. KRISTINE Wade February 23, 2017 at 2:56 pm -

    Explain the difference between a Home equity loan and a mortgage loan. Currently I have a 1st mortgage and a heloc. My interest is high and I want one loan payment .I also want to take 30k out for home improvements

  39. Colin Robertson February 26, 2017 at 5:22 pm -
  40. Shawn March 13, 2017 at 7:37 pm -

    Currently have a balance of $289k on 30y 4.25 mortgage. 24 years remaining.
    Offered a no cost 15y refi at 3.65, with just $1500 lender fees. New monthly payment will erase PMI saving me $130. Total number increased monthly payment of $300, but all that and some going directly to principle each month.
    Plan is to move in the next 1-3 years. Home value of $365k.

    Does this make sense?

  41. Colin Robertson March 14, 2017 at 8:08 am -

    Shawn,

    First, you may want to question the no cost aspect of the deal if they’re charging you $1,500 in lender fees. Secondly, if you don’t plan to stay very long, any fees whether charged out-of-pocket or rolled into the loan may not be recouped. Paying to refi for just a year or so of lower payments may not be cost effective. Conversely, if you keep a mortgage for a long time, the lower rate saves you more money, even if there are upfront fees to get said rate. As far as going with a 15-year, that’s a personal choice that will pay down the mortgage a lot faster, but increase monthly payments. If you want to pay down your balance before you move then it can be a good choice. If you simply want the lowest monthly payment, the 30-year should be considered as well.

  42. Satin March 17, 2017 at 3:58 pm -

    Hi Colin,
    my mortgage has just been sold to a company. Upon reviewing this company on consumer reports and other sites out of 500+ reviews on consumer reports they have a 1 star. This terrifies me. The most common complaints are their mortgage keeps increasing. The complaints don’t say if they have arm loans, in that case well yeah the mortgage will increase. Yet, some of those complaints say the company is saying it is due to escrow. My understanding is the company cannot have more than 1.6% over the estimated tax and insurance. So I am not sure how their mortgages are almost doubling. I am wondering if refinancing is the best option. I understand at some time whom ever has my mortgage can sell it to this company again. I have 24 years left on my current mortgage owe about 90,000 and the house is estimated at 196,000. I would love to take some maybe 15,000 of the equity and do some renovations. My biggest problem I don’t have closing cost. I do plan on staying in this house for many year as I grew up in it. what do you think is best stay with this current mortgage company and keep very good records of all my payments and escrow accounts or refinance with a no or low cost?

  43. Colin Robertson March 18, 2017 at 10:42 am -

    Satin,

    I don’t know if I’d refinance just because a new loan servicer with poor reviews had my loan. But you said you may want some cash to do renovations, in which case you can look into a refinance of your first mortgage if favorable, or consider a second such as a HELOC or a home equity loan instead. A second might be cheaper and easier, though it wouldn’t get your first mortgage away from this company. Again, who knows the truth about those reviews and what really happened. Best to compare pros and cons of all options and go from there. Good luck.

  44. Tomsp8 April 24, 2017 at 6:35 am -

    Hey, Colin
    My house is valued at 190,000, with about a 110,000 payoff, with about 9 years left. I need about 20K to pay off outstanding credit card, taxes, and medical bills. Would also like another 10K for home improvements. Decent income (50/55K) but poor/so-so credit (620/650). I would
    like to lower my monthly outlaw, as I am maxed out as of now, but do not want to go past another 15 years of new mortgage. I’m 52 and want to be able to own my home free and clear at retirement, then maybe sell it and pay cash for a retirement home out in the country. I’m thinking a cash out refi is my best option?
    How do I keep from getting ripped off? I’m not good with this type of stuff…….

  45. Colin Robertson May 1, 2017 at 11:06 am -

    Tomsp8,

    It depends if your current first mortgage is set at a low rate or not. With your so-so credit, you may not want to get rid of the old mortgage if it has a favorable rate and nearly paid off. Instead, there might be an option to add a second mortgage if you don’t want to mess with the first. But this will increase your monthly outlay, obviously. If your current mortgage rate can be improved (since rates are so low nowadays), a cash out might be the better option to avoid paying more each month while getting the money you need. Just note that you’ll restart your mortgage and take on a higher rate than what’s possible because of your marginal credit. You may want to see if you can clean it up a bit before applying to get the best rate possible. To ensure you’re getting a good rate, it’s advisable to compare multiple lenders so you know what’s out there…and have something to compare it to. Good luck!

  46. Ari June 9, 2017 at 6:22 am -

    Hello Colin,

    I have 1st at 3.5 w/10yrs left and a HEL at 3.6 that closed in Apr 2017. The 1st owe 109,000.00 and HEL 48,700.00. Do you think it wise to refinance at any point to merge into one mortgage again?

  47. kathy June 10, 2017 at 4:09 pm -

    I owe 183,000. the house is worth per city tax 384,000. our interest rate is 6.5 and we have a low credit score of 640. we have 20 years left. we are thinking about refinancing with our bank. My goal is to pay off 43,000. in debt and lower my house payment. we have a 30 year loan. would it be advised to refinance to a lower interest rate and a 15 year loan.

  48. Colin Robertson June 11, 2017 at 9:23 am -

    Ari,

    It could be because the Fed is expected to raise rates (which will raise Prime and the rate on that HELOC). But you’ll have to do the math to determine the best structure.

  49. Colin Robertson June 11, 2017 at 9:24 am -

    Kathy,

    Rates are closer to 4% these days for a 30-year fixed, maybe a bit higher because of your lower credit score. But there’s a decent chance you can get a lower rate. As for 15-year term, that’s up to you. If you want to pay off your mortgage faster, it’s one way to do it. And if you get a rate low enough, the monthly payment could be similar to your existing 30-year payment at 6.5%.

  50. Mike June 13, 2017 at 5:54 am -

    Hi Colin,

    My Mortgage servicer contacted me about refinancing my FHA loan, to reduce my rate from 4.75% to 4.25%. They are saying it will be no cost to me. Is it normal for the Mortgage company that is currently servicing your loan to contact the customer to refinance at a lower rate?
    Is there a chance they are trying to get something over on me?

  51. Colin Robertson June 13, 2017 at 7:53 am -

    Mike,

    It’s pretty common – they probably just scrub all their accounts to determine who could “benefit” from a refinance then go from there. Whether it’s a good deal for you or not depends on a number of factors that you need to assess personally. In general, I like to shop around instead of taking the first offer that comes to me, regardless of what it is that’s being sold to me.

  52. Steven June 26, 2017 at 3:27 pm -

    Hi Colin,
    We have a 3.75 %, 15 yr. mortgage with a current balance of $255,000 with 7.5 years left. The home value is approx. $650,000+. Current monthly payment is $2650, we are entertaining a thought of a no-cost refi to lower our payments. We have an offer of 30 yr. mortgage that will decrease our payment by $1000/mo, with no prepayment penalties..

  53. Colin Robertson June 27, 2017 at 12:34 pm -

    Steven,

    It’s up to you…obviously the monthly payment will go way down because you’re starting a fresh 30-year term with a small loan balance…the downside is you’ll pay a lot more interest over the next three decades if you refinance and keep that new loan for a while. So it’s your decision if you want payment relief now or interest relief.

  54. Kruz June 28, 2017 at 12:39 pm -

    Hi Colin,
    I have started process of refinance with an online broker at 2.74% interest rate for 15 yrs. balance on my current loan is 272K and it’s for 30 yrs.

    Lender has provided me the loan estimate disclosure with fees. Some fees are borrower to lender and some are borrower to third party (such as Appraisal, etc). Me and broker talked about low cost and he and I agreed that I don’t need to have an appraisal. Now if I had an appraisal I would have paid that cost upfront. I haven’t paid any cost for appraisal so far. However, he gave me loan estimate disclosure which has appraisal fee mentioned with all other costs. I asked him about it and he said it will be removed at later point once we are close to finalize everything.

    My question is how much trust I can put in his words? Should I trust what he is saying and wait for final figures or should I fight from now to get that fee line item be removed from the estimate?

    Note: one thing is sure there won’t be any appraisal happening that I know for sure.

    Thanks Kruz.

  55. Colin Robertson June 29, 2017 at 9:06 am -

    Kruz,

    Hmm, might be listed there in case there is in fact an appraisal required and as a safety measure for him to disclose it upfront. That being said, he might be right that it won’t be ordered, but may not be 100% sure.

  56. Cathy June 29, 2017 at 3:33 pm -

    Does it make sense for us to refinance from our current FHA loan @ 3.625 rate to a “no cost” conventional loan @ 4.25-4.375 rate?

  57. christine July 7, 2017 at 8:50 am -

    Hi, I currently have 25 years left on a 30 year mortgage, 3.75% APR. I spoke with my existing mortgage company today about refinancing to a 15 year conventional loan to get rid of mortgage insurance on my FHA loan. She said that my interest rate would still be 3.75% and I would have around $2200.00 in closing costs. Is this wise, or just wait for the PMI to drop off and go with it? I already pay an extra $150 to principle a month, so the difference in payment would only be $8 a month extra. Thanks

  58. Colin Robertson July 7, 2017 at 12:05 pm -

    Cathy,

    It depends on the total cost of the monthly payment (including mortgage insurance) and what your goal is with the loan…e.g. lower payment or pay off mortgage faster…

  59. Colin Robertson July 7, 2017 at 12:32 pm -

    Christine,

    You could shop around and see if other banks/lenders can beat your current rate and do so with little or no closing costs. A 15-year rate should be lower than a 30-year. Typically, existing lenders don’t offer very good refinance deals unless rates have fallen substantially, but outside banks are generally happy to swoop in and offer better.

  60. sal August 31, 2017 at 11:06 am -

    Hi,

    We just closed the house 6 months ago at 4.15 % interest rate for 30 years fixed on a $450000 house with 10% down.

    My mortgage broker called and said we can do zero cost refinancing for 3.125 for 15 years fixed

    or

    2.875% for 15 years fixed with closing cost which he says will be approximately $2000. We have about $395000 loan left.

    We are planning to stay in this house for at least 10 years.

    Please advice which is better no cost refinancing at higher rate or closing cost at lower rate.

  61. Colin Robertson August 31, 2017 at 11:14 am -

    Sal,

    Basically try to figure out your breakeven point where the $2,000 costs are recouped via the lower payment attached to the 2.875% rate. If it’s well before 10 years, it may be the better deal for you, despite the upfront out-of-pocket costs.

  62. sal August 31, 2017 at 11:49 am -

    my mortgage lender is saying it will go further down so no need to spend money on closing now, is that a good idea, when I calculated looks like we will save $4000 over the 10 years going with lower interest rate and paying the closing costs. What do you think?

  63. Colin Robertson August 31, 2017 at 2:04 pm -

    Sal,

    It’s up to you. If you can handle the larger payment of the 15-year fixed and want to pay down your mortgage quicker, as you said, it can save you some money.

  64. Wenn September 14, 2017 at 10:06 am -

    Colin:

    In the process of refinancing my mortgage from 4.5% to 4.125%. I currently owe $349K, with the refinance returning the loan to $358K. My question is: when the underwriter rejects the loan file due to questions on your credit report can this take up to 60 days (questions were concerning my student loan consolidation). Also, is this a way to boost the closing cost considering I have had several rate locks and the mortgage rate increase from 4.00 to 4.125 over this time period?

  65. Colin Robertson September 15, 2017 at 9:43 am -

    Wenn,

    If you’re saying the lender delayed the closing, ideally they would cover the extension costs, but if some of the blame falls on you, the costs may also. Rates may have fallen since you first applied though, meaning it may be possible to let the lock expire and relock at today’s pricing, assuming they allow it, or apply elsewhere for better pricing.

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